Armenian cuisine is a far better thing than the bit of pilaf or stuffed grape leaves that the casual diner in Near Eastern restaurants has timidly sampled. And here it is in all its dazzling variety - piquant appetizers to stir the taste buds; good, rich soups to nourish the soul; succulent meat, fish and poultry dishes for hearty entrees; exciting different combinations of grains and vegetables. Rachel Hogrogian has made attainable those splendid breads and pastries that may have seemed too great a challenge to the intermediate baker. And her meltingly delicious desserts will be the perfect climax to any meal.